Edinburgh guidebook

Sally
Edinburgh guidebook

Eats

Edinburgh has an amazing food scene......these are just a few of my favourite places to eat.
Amazing small, local restaurant serving fantastic food. Booking is essential.
137 locals recommend
The Walnut
9 Leith Walk
137 locals recommend
Amazing small, local restaurant serving fantastic food. Booking is essential.
Fantastic food. They do a great brunch and the ice cream slider is a must.
69 locals recommend
Educated Flea
32B Broughton St
69 locals recommend
Fantastic food. They do a great brunch and the ice cream slider is a must.
35 locals recommend
The Little Chartroom
14 Bonnington Road
35 locals recommend
Incredible seasonal, regional eating experience involving tasting menus and communal dining. They do a pretty mean brunch too! Booking needed
339 locals recommend
The Gardener's Cottage
1 London Road
339 locals recommend
Incredible seasonal, regional eating experience involving tasting menus and communal dining. They do a pretty mean brunch too! Booking needed
By far and away the best seafood place in Edinburgh. Incredible choice of seafood presented in a variety of ways.....all perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. The cocktails here are also fantastic. Booking recommended.
159 locals recommend
The Ship On The Shore
Shore
159 locals recommend
By far and away the best seafood place in Edinburgh. Incredible choice of seafood presented in a variety of ways.....all perfectly cooked and beautifully presented. The cocktails here are also fantastic. Booking recommended.
Incredible food, incredible view.... Booking essential.
31 locals recommend
The Lookout by Gardener's Cottage
38 Calton Hill
31 locals recommend
Incredible food, incredible view.... Booking essential.
Simply the best tacos in town. Great food. Great margaritas (shaken recommended). Great music. No bookings taken, and it does get busy, but you can put your name down and go across the street to Bon Vivant for a pre-meal cocktail (they even have suggested cocktails for those waiting for an El Cartel table).
167 locals recommend
El Cartel
64 Thistle St
167 locals recommend
Simply the best tacos in town. Great food. Great margaritas (shaken recommended). Great music. No bookings taken, and it does get busy, but you can put your name down and go across the street to Bon Vivant for a pre-meal cocktail (they even have suggested cocktails for those waiting for an El Cartel table).
Fantastic pizza and you can either go and eat in their lovely restaurant, order it for delivery at home or, if you are at The Joker & The Thief on Leith Walk, order it and have it with your pint of Tennent's (they serve it up on a platter, and provide napkins etc....amazing!). The Vesuvio is my firm favourite!
250 locals recommend
Origano pizzeria
236 Leith Walk
250 locals recommend
Fantastic pizza and you can either go and eat in their lovely restaurant, order it for delivery at home or, if you are at The Joker & The Thief on Leith Walk, order it and have it with your pint of Tennent's (they serve it up on a platter, and provide napkins etc....amazing!). The Vesuvio is my firm favourite!
For collection or delivery, Eatalia is a long-standing, family-run place that does a great line in Italian and Scottish classic fast food, including haggis supper with salt & sauce, or arancini.
11 locals recommend
Eatalias
1 Brunswick Pl
11 locals recommend
For collection or delivery, Eatalia is a long-standing, family-run place that does a great line in Italian and Scottish classic fast food, including haggis supper with salt & sauce, or arancini.
Fantastic Indian food.....delivered (there are sit-in options too)! Recommendations: Railway lamb curry; Chicken tikka; Tandoori chicken tikka wrap; brocolli bhaji; peshwari, keema or garlic naan.....it's all soooo goood!
11 locals recommend
Slumdog delivered Indian takeaway open from 12 o'clock 7 days a week
118 Elm Row
11 locals recommend
Fantastic Indian food.....delivered (there are sit-in options too)! Recommendations: Railway lamb curry; Chicken tikka; Tandoori chicken tikka wrap; brocolli bhaji; peshwari, keema or garlic naan.....it's all soooo goood!
A seriously impressive selection of beers (including a number on draft) and the best burgers in Edinburgh.
37 locals recommend
Salt Horse Beer Shop & Bar
57-61 Blackfriars St
37 locals recommend
A seriously impressive selection of beers (including a number on draft) and the best burgers in Edinburgh.
Classic dishes with a Scottish twist. Great food and friendly staff.
New Town Fox
2 Dundas St
Classic dishes with a Scottish twist. Great food and friendly staff.
Great Thai street food joint. It can get really busy, but it's totally worth the wait.
257 locals recommend
TING THAI CARAVAN Teviot Place
9 Teviot Pl
257 locals recommend
Great Thai street food joint. It can get really busy, but it's totally worth the wait.
Probably the best steak joint in town, with some interesting cocktail options too.
98 locals recommend
Chop House Leith
102 Constitution St
98 locals recommend
Probably the best steak joint in town, with some interesting cocktail options too.
Fantastic cafe with brilliant breakfasts and delicious scones. A hidden gem. It's cash only (there are cashpoints at the BP garage and Tesco nearby).
28 locals recommend
The Bluebird Cafe
5 Canonmills
28 locals recommend
Fantastic cafe with brilliant breakfasts and delicious scones. A hidden gem. It's cash only (there are cashpoints at the BP garage and Tesco nearby).
Probably the best brunch spot in Edinburgh (in my opinion). A good range of options (catering for a range of dietary requirements), great coffee, fresh squeezed orange juice..... amazing!
68 locals recommend
Urban Angel
121 Hanover St
68 locals recommend
Probably the best brunch spot in Edinburgh (in my opinion). A good range of options (catering for a range of dietary requirements), great coffee, fresh squeezed orange juice..... amazing!
Wonderful Thai food on one of my favourite Edinburgh streets. The starter platter is a must eat.....go hungry!
54 locals recommend
Dusit
49A Thistle St
54 locals recommend
Wonderful Thai food on one of my favourite Edinburgh streets. The starter platter is a must eat.....go hungry!
Montreal-style bagels - made on site. Fresh and tasty, with the option to eat in or take away.
91 locals recommend
Bross Bagels
6 Manderston St
91 locals recommend
Montreal-style bagels - made on site. Fresh and tasty, with the option to eat in or take away.
Great gelateria on Leith Walk.....always an interesting selection of flavours. The cookies one is particularly good.
Bon Bon gelateria Edinburgh
65 Elm Row
Great gelateria on Leith Walk.....always an interesting selection of flavours. The cookies one is particularly good.
Some of the best ice cream in town, you can find Luca's ice-cream all over town. The cafe offers some indulgent sundaes among other things. Locally made. The Toffee Fudgy Wudgy is a must try!
40 locals recommend
S Luca
16 Morningside Rd
40 locals recommend
Some of the best ice cream in town, you can find Luca's ice-cream all over town. The cafe offers some indulgent sundaes among other things. Locally made. The Toffee Fudgy Wudgy is a must try!

Drinks

There are loads of bars and pubs in Edinburgh.....here are some of my favourites...
A wonderful selection wine and extremely knowledgeable and friendly staff. They always have wine flights, which change quite regularly and come with the option of cheese pairings (they did chocolate pairings at Easter!). The food is also excellent, including a great range of cheese and charcuterie, as well as the incredible Edward & Irwyn chocolate (the honeycomb is mindblowing....also available from their shop in Morningside).
91 locals recommend
Smith & Gertrude
254 Hamilton Pl
91 locals recommend
A wonderful selection wine and extremely knowledgeable and friendly staff. They always have wine flights, which change quite regularly and come with the option of cheese pairings (they did chocolate pairings at Easter!). The food is also excellent, including a great range of cheese and charcuterie, as well as the incredible Edward & Irwyn chocolate (the honeycomb is mindblowing....also available from their shop in Morningside).
A great traditional pub, with live music (Saturdays and Sundays). They also do decent food. The cullen skink is fantastic.
37 locals recommend
The Barony Bar
81-85 Broughton Street
37 locals recommend
A great traditional pub, with live music (Saturdays and Sundays). They also do decent food. The cullen skink is fantastic.
My current favourite traditional bar in Edinburgh. Great atmosphere, good selection of drinks, regular traditional music, and the food is decent too (beef brisket stovies - highly recommended!)
19 locals recommend
Thistle Street Bar
39 Thistle St
19 locals recommend
My current favourite traditional bar in Edinburgh. Great atmosphere, good selection of drinks, regular traditional music, and the food is decent too (beef brisket stovies - highly recommended!)
Great local bar. good selection of drinks, friendly staff.
8 locals recommend
Smoke & Mirrors
159 Constitution St
8 locals recommend
Great local bar. good selection of drinks, friendly staff.
Best pint of Tennent's in Edinburgh and probably one of the most reasonably priced too. Always great music and people-watching. The added bonus is that you can order an Origano pizza via the bartender and have it delivered to your table - pretty special!
15 locals recommend
The Joker And The Thief
71 Elm Row
15 locals recommend
Best pint of Tennent's in Edinburgh and probably one of the most reasonably priced too. Always great music and people-watching. The added bonus is that you can order an Origano pizza via the bartender and have it delivered to your table - pretty special!
Wonderful traditional pub in Morningside. A good pint and great people watching.
95 locals recommend
Canny Mans
237 Morningside Rd
95 locals recommend
Wonderful traditional pub in Morningside. A good pint and great people watching.
Possibly the best cocktails in Edinburgh - incredibly knowledgeable and friendly staff. Amazing negronis, margaritas, white russians and allsorts of exciting and interesting concoctions. I haven't ever eaten here, but the food always looks fantastic.
64 locals recommend
The Bon Vivant
55 Thistle St
64 locals recommend
Possibly the best cocktails in Edinburgh - incredibly knowledgeable and friendly staff. Amazing negronis, margaritas, white russians and allsorts of exciting and interesting concoctions. I haven't ever eaten here, but the food always looks fantastic.

Shopping

Local shopping recommendations to meet at least some of your needs...
Sustainable grocery shopping at its finest. Locally sourced produce (including milk in glass bottles, fresh eggs and incredible bread), take a jar, tub etc and fill it up with whatever you need (pasta, lentils, flour, seeds, nuts, shampoo.....). Don't worry if you don't have a jar/tub they have a supply of 'karmic jars' that you can use.
Weigh To Go
27 Crighton Pl
Sustainable grocery shopping at its finest. Locally sourced produce (including milk in glass bottles, fresh eggs and incredible bread), take a jar, tub etc and fill it up with whatever you need (pasta, lentils, flour, seeds, nuts, shampoo.....). Don't worry if you don't have a jar/tub they have a supply of 'karmic jars' that you can use.
Wonderful small local grocery store. Great selection of veg and allsorts of other produce.
53 locals recommend
Tattie Shaws
35 Elm Row
53 locals recommend
Wonderful small local grocery store. Great selection of veg and allsorts of other produce.
With an incredible selection of delicious sausages, Crombie's is the place to go for all of your meaty needs. The do a good selection of prepared meats ready to put in the oven......amazing chicken kiev, stir fry....etc. They also do breakfast rolls (limited supply so get there early) and lunches for takeout during the week.
70 locals recommend
Crombies of Edinburgh
97 Broughton St
70 locals recommend
With an incredible selection of delicious sausages, Crombie's is the place to go for all of your meaty needs. The do a good selection of prepared meats ready to put in the oven......amazing chicken kiev, stir fry....etc. They also do breakfast rolls (limited supply so get there early) and lunches for takeout during the week.
Fantastic traditional butcher. They do (in my opinion) the finest black pudding in Edinburgh, as well as stocking an impressive range of meat including game.
9 locals recommend
George Bower Butchers
75 Raeburn Pl
9 locals recommend
Fantastic traditional butcher. They do (in my opinion) the finest black pudding in Edinburgh, as well as stocking an impressive range of meat including game.
Small, but excellent Co-op on McDonald Rd. It has a good product range, friendly staff and long opening hours.
Co-op Food - Edinburgh - McDonald Road
8 McDonald Rd
Small, but excellent Co-op on McDonald Rd. It has a good product range, friendly staff and long opening hours.
The most comprehensive bottle shop in town.
The Bon Vivant's Companion
51 Thistle Street
The most comprehensive bottle shop in town.

Services

Best barbers in Edinburgh. Close-cut hot towel shave, clean, great service, you even get a coffee.
Veen Barbers
64 Elm Row
Best barbers in Edinburgh. Close-cut hot towel shave, clean, great service, you even get a coffee.
Brilliant traditional local pharmacy. Friendly and really very helpful staff.
50 locals recommend
Broughton Delicatessen
7 Barony St
50 locals recommend
Brilliant traditional local pharmacy. Friendly and really very helpful staff.
By far and away the best taxi firm in town. You can call to book, or use their app. These are licensed hackney taxis and it's a carbon neutral company. The drivers know where they are going and are generally really friendly and super-helpful. 0131 228 1211
24 locals recommend
City Cabs (Edinburgh) Ltd
1 Atholl Pl
24 locals recommend
By far and away the best taxi firm in town. You can call to book, or use their app. These are licensed hackney taxis and it's a carbon neutral company. The drivers know where they are going and are generally really friendly and super-helpful. 0131 228 1211
Great full-service beauty salon. Friendly but professional staff. Well-priced services.
6 locals recommend
Zen Lifestyle
25-27 Bruntsfield Pl
6 locals recommend
Great full-service beauty salon. Friendly but professional staff. Well-priced services.

Coffee

Top spots for coffee in Edinburgh...
Laid back coffee house with spectacular coffee and some tasty food options. 'Craft coffee roasters from Scotland', a wide variety of coffees are available to take home with you, full bean or ground to suit your coffee-making device at home.
236 locals recommend
Artisan Roast
57 Broughton St
236 locals recommend
Laid back coffee house with spectacular coffee and some tasty food options. 'Craft coffee roasters from Scotland', a wide variety of coffees are available to take home with you, full bean or ground to suit your coffee-making device at home.
Lovely teas and coffees and some good looking cakes, soups and sandwiches. Also non-edible temptations in the form of artwork and vintage homewares.
23 locals recommend
Art and Vintage
3 Lyne St
23 locals recommend
Lovely teas and coffees and some good looking cakes, soups and sandwiches. Also non-edible temptations in the form of artwork and vintage homewares.

Entertainment

Some of my favourite things to do and see in Edinburgh...
Amazing independent cinema in Morningside. Think reclining armchairs, sofas, local ice-cream and beer, accompanied by a big-screen movie.
Dominion Cinema
Newbattle Terrace
Amazing independent cinema in Morningside. Think reclining armchairs, sofas, local ice-cream and beer, accompanied by a big-screen movie.
On a nice day, at any time of year, the Botanics are a great place to visit. As well as wandering around these beautiful gardens, there are amazing glasshouses, a cafe and a shop, as well as being able to catch glimpses of the city and castle. Check out their website - they commonly have things going on (e.g., Christmas at the Botanics (light installations) and the Luna cinema).
1227 locals recommend
Royal Botanic Garden Edinburgh
Arboretum Place
1227 locals recommend
On a nice day, at any time of year, the Botanics are a great place to visit. As well as wandering around these beautiful gardens, there are amazing glasshouses, a cafe and a shop, as well as being able to catch glimpses of the city and castle. Check out their website - they commonly have things going on (e.g., Christmas at the Botanics (light installations) and the Luna cinema).
Great views, some interesting history, and even a fantastic restaurant, Calton Hill is well worth a visit. The access via Blenheim Place provides a slightly gentler climb to the top that the steps or the road.
1098 locals recommend
Calton Hill
Calton Hill
1098 locals recommend
Great views, some interesting history, and even a fantastic restaurant, Calton Hill is well worth a visit. The access via Blenheim Place provides a slightly gentler climb to the top that the steps or the road.
Wonderful walks along the Water of Leith - great wildlife (recently spotted a kingfisher!), interesting history and architecture, wonderful views, and even some Antony Gormley sculptures (one close to McDonald Road!), a really peaceful place close to the city
16 locals recommend
Water of Leith Walkway
Water of Leith Walkway
16 locals recommend
Wonderful walks along the Water of Leith - great wildlife (recently spotted a kingfisher!), interesting history and architecture, wonderful views, and even some Antony Gormley sculptures (one close to McDonald Road!), a really peaceful place close to the city
Tranquil village really close to the city centre on the Water of Leith. Interesting architecture and a short walk along the Water of Leith from Stockbridge.
268 locals recommend
Dean Village
Dean Path
268 locals recommend
Tranquil village really close to the city centre on the Water of Leith. Interesting architecture and a short walk along the Water of Leith from Stockbridge.
Just a short bus ride from the city, Portobello has a wonderful beach. Take a walk along the beach, have a pint in the Espy, get a Luca's ice-cream, go to the arcades, or just enjoy the spectacular views of the Forth.
447 locals recommend
Portobello Beach Promenade
1 Promenade
447 locals recommend
Just a short bus ride from the city, Portobello has a wonderful beach. Take a walk along the beach, have a pint in the Espy, get a Luca's ice-cream, go to the arcades, or just enjoy the spectacular views of the Forth.

City advice

Getting around

Edinburgh has a great public transport system...

Lothian buses: £4 day ticket for the city; £1.70 for a single journey. You can either pay cash (no change given) or by contact-less payment. Edinburgh tram: a good option for getting from the airport to the city centre. Pay before getting on board though! Airlink bus: Probably the most cost-effective way to travel between the airport and the city. The service runs 24h and is an express service. City cabs: there are lots of taxi companies in the city, but this is the one that I would recommend for reliability, friendly and knowledgeable drivers. Just Eat bikes: get the app.....they are all over the city and a great way to get around and see the city.