Minneapolis, the biggest city in Minnesota, wraps around the Mississippi River and the state capital of Saint Paul, forming the Twin Cities, the cultural capital of the Upper Midwest. It’s known as the City of Lakes; there are around 15 within the city limits, most of which are lively playgrounds during the warmer months.

Slightly denser and more urban than St Paul, Minneapolis is known for its thriving arts scene. It is home to two of the largest art museums in the United States — the Minneapolis Institute of Art, whose collections of African and Asian art are particularly fine, and the Walker Art Center, which houses world-class contemporary art. With hundreds of theatres in town, there are shows every night, and theatre-goers from around the country make pilgrimages here to see plays at beautiful venues like the Ordway Center for the Performing Arts and the Guthrie Theater.

You can spend hours darting among cafes and shops in Uptown and Dinkytown (the neighborhood around the University of Minnesota), while the former warehouses of the North Loop are now home to the Twin Cities’ most chic restaurants and boutiques. Walk or cycle over Stone Arch Bridge and spend an afternoon wandering the cobbled streets of St. Anthony West, one of the city’s most picturesque quarters. You’ll find a varied food scene here, from Scandinavian eateries in the north to German restaurants on Nicollet Avenue (or Eat Street, as some locals call it).

Minneapolis-St. Paul International Airport (MSP) is only 30 minutes away from downtown by car, with plenty of taxis available. You can also rent a car or hop on the Metro Transit trains that run directly into downtown. Once you arrive at your vacation rental in Minneapolis, the Metro is a great way to get around the city, with tickets available at machines in stations or via an app; the bus network can bring you to areas that the trains don’t pass through. One of the city’s unique features is the Minneapolis Skyway System, built due to the extremely cold conditions in winter. This covered and heated series of walkways two stories above ground level connects 80 city blocks over 11 miles.

June through early September is a great time to stay in a vacation rental in Minneapolis, when you can expect warm to hot days. Not surprisingly, given all the lakes, the humidity spikes in August, and the weather can be changeable, so it’s a good idea to pack layers along with sunscreen. In July and August, the Minnesota State Fair is one of the country’s largest state fairs, with cooking competitions, concerts, and amusement rides. October’s short fall brings changing colours to Boom Island Park and the lakes, and temperatures remain crisp but comfortable.

The snows begin falling in October and can last into early May. Winters can be extremely cold and icy, but the city is built for it, with frequent plowing and well-heated restaurants, shops, and attractions. It’s worth putting on layers and heading outside in late November to late December for Holidazzle, when the city lights up with a nightly parade down the pedestrianized Nicollet Mall. Spring comes late to Minnesota, but once the temperatures rise, flowers erupt all over the city.

Chain of Lakes

Just a 10-minute drive from town, the Chain of Lakes is a scenic trail around Lake Harriet, Lake of the Isles, and Bde Maka Ska (Lake Calhoun). Lake Harriet has two family beaches for swimming, and free live music at the bandstand in summer. Bde Maka Ska is the city’s largest lake and is great for walking and cycling as well as boating and canoeing — rentals are available nearby. In the warmer months, volleyball players pitch up on the sand. In winter, the lake freezes over and is a popular spot for ice skating and hockey.

Minneapolis Sculpture Garden

Just west of Loring Park, near the center of town, you’ll find more than 50 art installations from the Walker Art Center’s contemporary collection (the museum is next door). The pieces, many by world-renowned artists, are spread throughout the peaceful gardens, with the city skyline as their backdrop. The park is free to visit and open all day, every day.

Minnehaha Falls

The spectacular 53-foot Minnehaha Falls are just 15 minutes out of town in Minnehaha Park. In summer, the falls offer a beautiful backdrop to family picnics, with many easy walking and cycling trails through the woods and wildflowers. In winter, the waterfall freezes into a dramatic wall of ice that creates a spectacular sight — you can even walk behind the frozen curtain.